Age: 64 Still thinking like I’m 20ish…….,. Going to hit the big 65 soon!
Years surfing: 50
My first wave: was at Karge street in Bay Head in 1 foot slop. (I actually stood up)!
My first surfboard: 9′+ Hansen.
My favorite all time boards were: a 9′1″ Hansen Competitor. It turned like a son of a gun. My favorite all time shortboard Was a 5′2″ Country Surfboards fish shaped for me by the legendary Hawaiian Shaper, Barry Kanaiapuni(sp). I never remember going faster on any surfboard. I have also been working with my good friend and terrific shaper on Jon Ashton on a group of super high-performance mini & longboards. These boards are designed for good Surfers that want boards that will ride and perform like a much shorter board. I’ve been riding and redesigning them for over 10 years….. These boards work fantastic!
Currently, my quiver consists of: I guess old age is finally kicking in! A 8’4″ Ashton Swallow high-performance model, 9’6″ Ashton Swallow Epoxy Longboard, 7’4″ Ricky Carroll Minny Me and a 10’2″ Sup. i’ve started riding SUP’s in the last couple of years. Besides being a great excercise, it’s very relaxing and a lot of fun too!
Each board has its own characteristics and works well in a wide range of surf conditions….. besides, I own a Surf Shop, I’m supposed to have lots of boards!
I spend part of each Winter: in the Caribbean and I love to surf all the various reef breaks on all the neighboring islands. We get everything from waist high longboard surf to full-on fear days.
The most exotic place that I have ever surfed: was definitely our trip to Fiji. There’s No place in the world I’ve thought was more awesome. I’ve also been to Ireland several times in the last few years…… The Surf is definitely cold, but the variety of breaks and the overall beauty is something you’ll never forget!